[Circle C]

This is some really informative information on re-training race horses that I found on the New Vocations site. Just thought I'd post it

1. Basic Life Skills & Socialization:
It's hard to imagine that a horse must be taught to eat and drink and interact with other horses. But that is precisely what must be done to insure a healthy, safe transition from a pampered track existence to the realities of biting insects and group living.
Racehorses have been confined to a stall 24/7 for much of their life. The water bucket is often held to their thirsty lips; their hay hangs from the wall at eye level. Flies are minimized as stalls are meticulously picked out several times a day. Fans circulate the humid summer air and the barn protects from the pesky mosquitoes at night.
These "hot house orchids" do not instantly adapt to being an ordinary horse. Careful steps must be taken in the introduction to basic life skills. Simply putting the newly retired racehorse in a paddock with ample food, water, shelter, and friends can result in dangerous consequences. The new arrival is often afraid of the water tank and won't leave the barn to graze because of the flies. At feeding time the other horses run him from the grain and hay. Mistakenly, we think the horse is free and happy while the horse feels tortured and abandoned. During the adjustment period turnout needs to be interspersed with comfort time in the stall. Don't assume, make sure the horse knows how to drink from the tank, automatic watering trough, or creek. When feeding in a group situation monitor the grain consumption and provide extra piles of quality hay to accommodate the ever present shuffling.
Segregating mares and geldings eliminates much emotional turmoil and lessens separation anxiety. With one to three horses this may not be preferable, but in larger groups it's best. Geldings that have been on anabolic steroids often exhibit stallion like behavior for several months following the end of medication. These can be self-destructive when turned out if not carefully managed. They will often walk the fence incessantly, frantically calling to other horses. This results in weight loss and aggravates injuries. As the hormones wear off the horse may be turned out with geldings, but contact with mares should be avoided for at least three months.

2. Bitting:
Both standardbreds and thoroughbreds have been taught to race against the bit. A strong hold on the reins or driving lines steadies the horse and gives it confidence in the heat of battle. However, to the pleasure rider who encounters the horse fresh off the track, it simply has a "hard mouth." Actually, this isn't true. The horse has been conditioned to run or pace against the pressure and listen for other signals to slow down, i.e. "whoa" "easing up on the reins/lines" or "sitting up in the saddle." This can be rather disconcerting to the excited adopter going for his first ride.
Now, I'm going to describe this frequently unknown, but highly effective training technique.
Tack the horse and put it in a stall or round pen. Using one of the side reins, lead shanks or rope with knots snap or tie one end to the ring on the left side of the saddle or where the girth is secured. Then snap the other end to the ring in the snaffle bit. The strap should just snug enough that the horse needs to turn it's head slightly to relieve the pressure. Avoid having the rein so tight that the horse has to bend its neck at a right angle. Now, step out of the stall or round pen for about 30 minutes and let the horse work out the mechanics of "giving its head" to relieve the pressure of the bit. Follow the same procedure on the right side for 30 minutes. At the end of this hour praise the horse while untacking and grooming and return it to its stall or pasture.
The second bitting session can be the next day, several days or even a week later. Follow the same procedure as the first time, except the tie rein can be about an inch tighter. At the end of the hour, add 30 more minutes with the horse bitted straight back. This is achieved by setting the side reins at equal lengths, snapping from the bit to the respective side of the saddle just snug enough that the horse must duck its nose an inch or so to get relief. Immediately, the handler needs to show the horse by slightly pinching it on the nose that if it yields to the bit, the pressure stops. Beware of bitting the horse straight back too severely the first time. If the horse perceives there is no escape, it may flip over in frustration. Usually, a simple squeeze on the nose or manually pushing it's head toward its chest, will make a light bulb go off. Be sure the horse understands the concept before stepping away for another 30 minutes.
Two to four bitting sessions are recommended to initiate the retraining process. The first ride should immediately follow the end of a bitting session.
This training technique is not just for racetrack retirees. Any horse that is having difficulty "giving" to the bit will benefit from the described sessions. It should also be noted that bitting naturally releases endorphins due to the repeated flexion of the neck. This in turn calms the horse and helps to assure a more positive under-saddle experience. English and Western Pleasure show horses respond quite favorably to this focusing exercise prior to a show or even shortly before a class.

3. Standing & Walking Quietly While Mounted:
In Part I we bitted the horse in preparation for riding. The first ride should take place at the end of a bitting session. It's advisable to have a helper hold the horse when mounting the first time and be situated in a round pen or arena.
If it's a Standardbred that has never been ridden, slowly ease into the saddle, reassuring the horse with soothing words and gentle stroking. If the horse seems the least bit apprehensive this can be safely done in a stall or with the horse's face against the fence or side of the barn. Seeing a rider on its back for the first time can be unnerving, but after a few minutes of encouragement, the horse will relax. The rider should lean in all directions petting the horse's shoulders, rump, and sides. The lesson should conclude with several mounts and dismounts, standing quietly for a couple of minutes between each.

Thoroughbreds are accustomed to walking off as soon as the rider is boosted into the saddle. They normally do not stand quietly while mounted. It is very important that horses of both breeds learn this fundamental lesson before moving onto the next step. Walking off should not be allowed until the horse has accepted standing quietly when mounted and remains so with the rider in place. It usually only takes one or two short ten minute lessons to accomplish this goal.

The next phase should be spent walking quietly while mounted with intermittent stopping and standing. It can be in a ring or up and down the driveway, but not in an open field. It's helpful and more interesting if there are obstacles to go over and around. This is a time to re-enforce the bitting lessons and teach the horse to yield to leg pressure. Though the pace is slow, be creative. Execute patterns around pylons and over ground poles. As the horse progesses move out of the confines, maneuver through gates and around trees or vehicles. A minimum of three to four sessions should be spent in this manner before moving into the trot for the first time.

4. Trotting & Cantering:
The horse should stand, be yielding to the bit, and giving appropriately to leg pressure before moving into the trot for the first time.

Standardbreds and Thoroughbreds diverge at this point. Standardbreds have a big, rough trot while Thoroughbreds have a smoother, slower trot. During the transitional phase for both breeds the rider needs to post. Thoroughbreds aren't accustomed to having a rider bounce on their sensitive backs, while Standardbreds are barely adjusted to a rider at all! Have some mercy on yourself, and the horses, and post to their trot. Also, stay in the confines of a ring or smaller paddock.
This stage moves along quickly for the Thoroughbreds. They've spent many rainy days jogging around shed rows. After a few sessions of trotting interspersed with walking and standing quietly, the Thoroughbred should be ready to canter. Again, choose a calm, relatively mild day. Work through the lessons the horse already knows. Then when the horse is calm and attentive ask for a canter with a squeeze and a kiss.

Standardbreds can trot or be taught to rack at this stage. The rack is a single-foot gait that is much smoother than a trot. Most Standardbred owners prefer it. To trot, relax any pressure on the reins and "kiss" until the horse moves out. This may mean multiple "kissing", "clucking", and occasionally a tap on the rump since these horses are still learning to move forward to leg pressure.
If a RACK is desired, hold the horse in the bridle and drive him forward with legs and verbal encouragement. Many will move right into a smooth rack. Others may take some practice or a heavier shoe behind to help them swing over.
Cantering is not initially easy for most Standardbreds. Many people are so pleased with their ground-covering walk and smooth rack that they never desire to canter. For those that wish to canter, it's best to have the horse well versed in the basics and then ask for the canter from a state of collection. This is preferable to rushing into a gallop from a 30 mph trot! Often these horses will also pick up a canter if pushed over an obstacle up a hill or taken over an obstacle.

From this stage forward these horses should be ready to go out on trails or be schooled in a variety of disciplines.

Developing the Rack in the Standardbred:
The smooth racking gait can be developed in just about every Standardbred even the 15% that are trotters, if desired. It's usually a simple matter of shoeing and collection.
Once the horse is comfortable undersaddle and giving nicely to the bit, it can be asked to move out a bit faster than the walk. On a loose rein, most will start trotting. However, if collected in the bridle and driven with the seat and legs, many will move from the walk right into a very smooth single-foot rack. If pushed for additional speed the rack will change into a rougher side to side pace. The difference is readily discerned by the rider.

Horses that don't pick up the rack when collected, but continue to trot often respond favorably to a heavier shoe behind. The same sense of balance can be achieved by going barefoot in front with regular shoes behind. The added weight helps the horse swing over into a more lateral gait. A light chain fitted loosely on the hind pasterns will generally encourage even the most reluctant Standardbred to rack.

A few Standardbreds are very pacey right from the walk and don't hit that smooth single foot gait when asked. These horses benefit from a heavier shoe in front or having their hind shoes pulled to encourage the rack before hitting a pace. A pair of light chains on the front pasterns also work wonders in helping this type of horse learn to rack.

Once the horse is racking, it's a matter of encouraging that gait through positive re-enforcement and not pushing for speed until the rack is well developed. Changing from the snaffle driving bit used during the first few rides to one with some leverage is especially helpful. Three bits commonly used on Standardbred racking horses are a Wonder Bit also known as a Gag bit, a Kimberwick, and a western training bit with 6 ½ " shanks. All of these have smooth snaffle mouthpieces and swivel cheeks to accommodate a direct reined horse.

[SunBun]

Very good info!! Thanks for sharing

[natural horses]

yeah, super helpful! thnx!

[probarrelracer]

I just bought a QH off the track that I am going to hopefully train in barrels. I have done this many times in the past, but it has been awhile. I had forgotten how looooong it takes to get them settled into a slower paced life - Not counting coming down off of the drugs, and trying to retrain them from the beginning. Thanks for this article. It is great.