[Heavenly Jumper]

I'm sure there have been threads on this before but I couldn't find what I wanted...

I am thinking about going out to look at a horse soon, and I wanted to e-mail the seller back. I have these questions so far, but I'm having a brain cramp and am probably forgetting something. What else should I ask?

P.S. (she is asking 3K and said "negotiable", what should I offer?)

~Can you tell me more about his parentage and racing career?
~Has he had any previous injuries or medical conditions?
~How long have you had him?
~Did you get him from the track or a rescue?
~What would you say his temperament is like on a scale from 1-10?
~Do you have any more photos of him, any under saddle?
~Where do you keep him so that I can come and take a look at him?
~Will you hold him for a few weeks, for a fee? (If not, that's ok)
~Does he have any vices?
~Clip, load, bathe and stand for farrier?
~Is he UTD on all shots and worming?

[Shotgun93]

Here you go:
Questions to ask when buying a horse??

Questions to ask when buying a horse

[Cheeky Monkey]

decide when you get there and have an opinion on him, what you should offer. If he is fabulous, you may be willing to pay the $3k if the owner doesn tgo down in price. If there are a few things that bother you but you still like him, offer something reasonable that isnt going to offend them. I wouldnt go much lower than $2200 in an offer and even then they may be offended. SO feel out the horse and the owners, see what you think he is worth and what you think they will take.

[Ureventer]

omgosh can I give u a list! haha

*How much is he currently being worked?
*What sort of training has he had?
*How is he with other horses?
*What discipline(s) do you think he would excel in?
*What level rider to you recommend (and why)?
*Does he have food agression?
*Does he spook easily?
*Has he ever been lame?
*What is his current boarding situation? Is he turned out with a mixed herd?
*Is he herd bound? (some ppl call it barn sour)

[Heavenly Jumper]

Whee! Thanks Shotgun!

[sher327]

1.does he play well with other?
2 food aggressive?
3. what type of fencing does he do well with?
4. How much under saddle time has he had?
5. How many owners?
6.Why are you selling?
7. are you willing to ride him for me when I come to see him so I can watch him move? (wouldn't buy a horse the owner won't mount)
Those just pop to mind, hope that helps
As far as what to offer, I wouldn't offer a darn thing until you've seen him and rode him. After that its all in what you think he is worth to you Toms horse was worth way more than the sellers asking price and we paid $700 LESS than they were asking

[Heavenly Jumper]

Who should I take with me? I think my trainer might go...

[Ureventer]

definitly your trainer

[Cara]

yes, bring your trainer!

[AFab]

Here is a few points from an artical I have by Wayne Loch
Department of Animal Sciences

Check the horse in its stall
As you enter the stable, watch the horse. Does it lay back its ears? A horse that lays back its ears in anger when approached may be bad tempered, spoiled or barn sour. If the horse shows interest and its ears are up, this is a good sign. Horses have very good hearing. They should be interested in all that goes on around them. What does the horse do as you approach the stall? In a box stall, it should go to the rear, turn, and face you. If it turns away from you, it may kick.
Does the horse stand quietly as the handler enters the stall or does it charge to get out? Does the seller walk right up to the horse's head or does he seem to hesitate? Does the horse turn away, not wanting to be caught? If it has been properly trained, it should be easy to catch, its ears should reflect no fear or mistrust, and the seller should have no reason to be afraid.
Learning from the stall
Examine the bedding. Is there any indication that the horse has been eating it? Eating bedding is a bad habit. It makes feeding difficult because such horses tend to fill up on bedding that has little nutritional value. Has this particular horse been bedded with sawdust, shavings, or peat moss while other horses are bedded with straw? The horse may have heaves or some other respiratory ailment. Ask why straw was not used.
Is there a path around the edge of the stall? Stall walkers are hard to cure.
Even the manure can give you a clue to the horse's health and the condition of teeth. If excessive long straw or hay and whole grain appear in the droppings, the horse may need some dental work.
Health records
Consider the horse's general health. Has it been treated for parasites in the last three months? Has it been vaccinated within the last year for tetanus and eastern-western encephalomyelitis and equine influenza or other infectious diseases? Be alert for runny noses; listen for coughs. Has the horse been tested for equine infectioius anemia? Horses purchased should be tested and shown negative.
Feet, legs and action
Observe the horse carefully as it is led from the stall. Be on guard for even slight indications of limping, stiffness or the favoring of a leg or foot.
Give particular attention to the legs, and examine the feet and legs with care. A horse is no better than its underpinnings, so sound feet and legs are vital. Any problem with a foot or leg is enough reason to reject the horse.
Are the legs straight? Cannons should be set squarely below a flat knee. Tendons should be well defined. Fetlocks must be strong. Pasterns should be directly below the cannon, and sloping -- not straight -- between fetlock and hoof. The hoof should be well shaped and form good angles to the wall.
A sound horse walks correctly from the first step. Some unsound horses, after being warmed up, appear sound. Look closely at the fetlocks, pasterns and hocks. Any swelling should provoke serious doubts about soundness.
The head
Often an inexperienced person pays too much attention to the head. Just because the head is attractive does not mean that the rest of the horse is right. When the horse is led from the stable into the light, watch his eyes. The pupils will contract quickly if vision is normal. They should be clear with no cloudiness and no tearing. The eyes should be wide-set and large. Do the incisors meet? If not, and the horse has a parrot mouth or undershot jaw, it probably cannot eat properly.
The body
Stand directly in front of the horse and compare the two sides. They should match. Muscles in one side are often large, particularly in the forearm. One of the flaws indicated by uneven development is a tendency to use only one lead. Just as humans are either right-handed or left-handed, a horse may favor one lead.
Repeat the inspection from directly behind the horse to detect hip and stifle trouble. A horse is an athlete and must have enough muscle to perform well, but the muscle must be of the proper kind. Avoid a horse with short, bunchy muscles if you are looking for a mount with agility and sustained speed over a long distance.
Next, examine the horse from the side. Shoulder and pastern angles and straightness of legs are of major importance in this view. Does the horse seem to be a bit long in the back? Chances are good that the shoulder is probably too straight as well.
Does it have enough withers to hold a saddle well? Are the withers too high and sharp? White marks at the withers or just behind the elbow indicate that the horse has old, healed saddle galls and girth chafes. There may have been problems in the past in fitting a saddle and keeping it in place.
Does the front half of the horse match the rear half? Lack of balance may not look the best but may not detract seriously from the horse's performance unless it is excessive. Remember that the main power and thrust come from the rear quarters and deficiency here is the most damaging.
Horse at work
Before you make a final decision about the horse, have it worked until it is warm. Notice its breathing. If its wind is broken, you can spot it now. If it doesn't want to leave the stable and strongly resists or tries to bolt for the barn, it is barn sour. Don't buy the horse unless someone in your family is an experienced horse handler. Watch the horse as it is ridden. Does it take the proper leads when asked? Does it stop collected on its hindquarters or bouncing on its forelegs? Will it back readily with its mouth closed and head down? Does it toss its head or go quietly? Does it wring its tail?
Does it fight the bit or tuck its chin to avoid it? Does it move out freely with plenty of flexion in knees and hocks, or does it need a lot of urging? Does it require restraint? Does it have to wear any correctional equipment (martingales, tie downs, drop nosebands or similar items? Not all of this equipment is allowed in the show ring. Worse yet, it may be needed to prevent the horse from indulging in bad habits.
Ride the horse yourself, but remember that most horses will not perform at their best for a strange handler. However, riding it yourself gives you the chance to discover small details or to prove what you might have suspected. Does it handle easily? Is it responsive, especially to leg pressure? How sensitive is it? Does it accept handling by a stranger or is it unduly upset?
Ride the horse at least once and preferably several times if you think that you would like to purchase it. It is not fair to the horse to judge its performance in one short ride with a complete stranger in the saddle. When it becomes used to you and you both relax, you will be able to evaluate it more fairly. However, if there are several reasons for rejecting it and its performance is poor, look elsewhere.