What kind of trail saddles do you like? and saddle fitting?

[Equine747]

I have a 5 year old Quarter horse / Arabian Mare that I like to trail ride on but I have always ridden bareback. I am now looking into buying a trail saddle for her and would like everyones opinions on brands. I have also heard of many different ways to tell if a saddle fits correctly But would also like to here your opinions on that as well. She is built just like her Registered Quarter horse Sire and does not look anything like her Dam (at lest I don't see it), Do you think a full Quarter horse bars would be needed or Semi? The saddle I was thinking about getting is a cheaper brand (I don't have much money so I can not get a $1000 saddle right now) But I do want to get a saddle that is the most comfortable for my horse (I can deal with discomfort for myself as long as I know my horse is comfortable).
This is one of the saddles that I am hoping to get within a year or so - have any of you ever tried it - and how did you like it?


Hank Freter Trail/Pleasure Saddle by Reinsman

$1,099.00Hermann Oak leather trail/endurance saddle. Hank's specially designed covered wood tree provides comfort for the horse and rider. Our test riders report this saddle is the most comfortable they've ever ridden. 10-yr warranty on the tree. This saddle has plenty of dees to tie on almost anything you'll need for the trail, plus a dee for a crupper.
5" cantle with Quarter Horse bars.
and this is the saddle I was thinking about getting right now - have any of you ever used this brand? are they any good?


Lami-Cell Trail Saddle

Each saddle has solid brass hardware, an extra added suede stitched seat, EZ-Fold Fender System, and Duraleather a composite synthetic material.

• Seat Sizes: 15.5", 16.5", or 17.5"
• Color: brown
• Tree: Full Quarter Horse Bars
• Lining: 100% felt
• Riggings: 0.75" position
• Swell width: 12.5"
• Cantle Height: 4"
• Horn size: 3" neck, 2.5" top
• Skirt: 25.5W x 13"H
• Stirrup: aluminum coated, 4" bottom, 5 5/8" open

Here is a photo of my mare

Thank You everyone for your help it is greatly appreciated!
-Danielle-

[Temposmom]

I use these, have two different models: http://specializedsaddles.com/new/

I know these are out of your price range, but just something to consider down the road.

You can get full tree templates from http://trailridingsaddles.com/ and that way you can get the right tree then order the saddle style you like, and these are less spendy. There are options out there, it is BEST if you can demo before buying, but so often you can't.

[Equine747]

Thank You Temposmom

now that I think of it I should have put this thread in the tack section :P

[cminor]

I would recommend that you look for a used saddle in good condition. The reason for that is they are broke in already and much more comfortable for you. Secondly being that it is used, you can get a much nicer made saddle for less money. For example I bought my saddle that runs around 900 for 500 used.

[Equine747]

Thank you Cminor
I was also meaning to ask what everyone thinks of the wintec western saddles - are they any good?

[PNHPlatinum]

I would recommend a deeper seat for more comfort! lol Especially for the longer rides(if you go on the 5 hours or more).

[cminor]

I personally am not a fan of synethic saddles of any type. Personal preference. Leather lasts longer and holds up better to me. I do not care for the lightness that synthetic saddles have. I want to feel secure and just don't in a synthetic saddle. The english wintecs are much better than the western ones though. If you want to get a decent saddle, you might check here if you are set on buying a brand new one. They have some of the best prices for saddles, free shipping and are pretty nice people to deal with. For a saddle for lesser money but still have way decent. you might look at their "custom" saddles. Made by Dakota, just without the name and are cheaper. They are a decent medium grade saddle. Here is a link for you:
http://www.horsesaddleshop.com/dakotasaddles.html

[Sue B]

Not all trees are created equal....there is no standarization....one company's full bars is not anothers....full bars can run from 6.5-7" or more in the gullet. And, the tree and generally quality of lether and hardware are generally what makes the difference in prices. In the case of the two saddles you selected....the Reinsman will be built on a wood tree wrapped in fiberglass or hide. The other tree doesn't say...but from the price of the saddle...my guess would be that it is a Ralide or other composite material. In which case....even though both are noted as "full" bars....they will not fit the same.

Saddle fit can be easy or tricky depending on the horse....and the saddle. We have full trees, fitting templates and their matching saddles at my friend's shop....and we have found that between the three...they all fit differently. We had skirting that slips onto the trees made up so we could get a better idea of fit witht he trees....neither of us have good luck with fititng templates.....except that our experience carries us through those fittings and we can generally guesstimate what template will work best.

There are several key points to check.....
Withers - generally you want 2=3 fingers depth above the withers.. But, I also don't worry too much about this aspect of the fit because if the saddle fits properly......there should be good wither clearance.

Shoulders - I check the should blade by sliding my fingers under the saddle and along the flat of the shoulder until I can just hook my fingers over the edge of the blade.....the tree should not be hitting my fingers or pinching them against the shoulder....some slight pressure is acceptable...but not much. By hooking my fingers over the shoulder....I am also determining if the saddle is positioned properly....if the tree is sitting in the right place. It should never be over the shoulder or close enough to it to hinder movement. I know that there are some current fads in trail saddle fit that imply fittiing the saddle so that the tree is positioned over the shoulder. The reason that is being done with one particular model is because that tree will hinder movement....even whein placed properly as I explained...so the compahy has come up with a "fix"....simply instruct people to position the saddle incorrectly over the should...then the edge of the tree won't band the edge of the shoulder.

Back - I slide my hand under the bar....between the fender and jockey...and along the bar as far as I can...actually....if it fits I won't be able to get my fingers under the bar...or at least not very far under. If it doesn't fit...it will bridge and you can get you fingers under the bar without any interferance. Pressure should be even along the bar.


The back of the saddle shold also not put any pressure on the body. I like to be able to get my fingers under it without feeling pressure...or with very little.

And, of course, y ou should be able to reach in through the gullet and feel the bar clearing he spine and making contact along the sides of the horse...if the bars rise too high off the sides without contact...that is not a good fit.

[Sue B]

I personally am not a fan of synethic saddles of any type. Personal preference. Leather lasts longer and holds up better to me. I do not care for the lightness that synthetic saddles have. I want to feel secure and just don't in a synthetic saddle.

It really depends on the s ynthetic saddle.....they are all different. Some are cheapy imports that should never be put on a horse....the trees are questionable and the material is not made to hold up to riding. But, a good synthetic made of Cordura will hold up....I have seen ones that were at least 15 years old and were in great shape. Also, the weight of them often depends on the tree. For example, Big Horn makes a half leather/Cordura saddle that is built on the same tree as many top quality leather saddles are....a Steele Equifit wood tree wrapped in fiberglass. The Wintec western is in a class by itself...with a totally different material. From what I have seen...all synthetics are improving and have been for several years now. While some come on trees that are more difficult to fit....most of the brand name companies are offering a wide variety of trees and Big Horn offers different ypes of trees....wood and Ralide.

[Sue B]

Oh...I forgot to address the OP question of brands....
Three are three decent brands of western/train synthetics.....Big Horn, Abetta and Fabtron...the first 2 seemt to be easier to fit.

For lether....most echonomical leather saddles are not worth the money. However, my friend sells a line in her shop....and exclusive, hand-made trail saddle...of really good leather and high quality workmanship...also on a good composit tree that comes in two sizes. She also sells a more expensive saddle that is custom fit and made to your specs. You can chek them out at www.russostackshack.com.