[Jenje!]

I haven't had to put a chain on a baby yet, but I haven't had one on stall rest, and that sounds like the thing to do in your case... because you really have to protect yourself as well as the baby while she's healing. If she continues to act like a knob when she's 100%, that's another story!

Originally Posted by bay_blnd jmpr07

When he starts acting like a fruitloop I normally "go after" his rear and make him turn and turn and turn. And it's all fast paced. After several turns I back him up a few steps then back him off me and make him stand at the end of my rope. By this time he's thinking "Oh no, mom's upset, I was bad" and will stand there. I'll then reel him in, give him a quick pat and start off on whatever we were doing. This all only takes a minute.

I do a bit of this, and I do use physical reprimands... more for things like the shovey-shovey, I'm-not-touching-you and other "threatening" games that they play. Mostly open-handed (bigger noise) slap on the neck and shoulder and loud NOs.

I don't know if I agree with letting the baby get to the end of their line and then just moving on... if you're not in the habit of wearing gloves, that can be a problem, as well as (as you experienced, sorry about that, I hate being kicked!) the fact that you are putting yourself in a vulnerable position. I like to work with as much "backup" lead as possible... not clutching at their heads, but so that I have something to give with if they're having a major meltdown -- takes away from the possibility of just having to let go, and having a baby running amok with a trailing leadrope. Some people are trained to "just let go" of a horse who is panicing/in a bad situation, but I won't/can't do that... comes from working with babies on the Arab farm when the LAST thing you needed was a baby with a trailing lead bolting all over the place.

In the middle of a freak-out, I've been known to stop, lip-twitch (by hand) and calm them down that way before moving on... "reboot" them so to speak. But that's more for when it's more actual fright than fight.

[JBandRio]

Originally Posted by buck1173

Get their brains working for you as much as you can in quiet situations, and then the brain will come around to work for you (little by little) as excitement levels rise.

Maybe spend 10-20 min working on yielding and softening in their stalls before taking them out... up your chances for success.

This really is the key for anything we do with any horse. The more you can engage their brain right off the bat, the better. With an adult horse who's being unruly, you can do one of two things - physically tire him out, which does nothing for his mind, and only makes him more fit and harder to tire out over time, or do some work to make him have to think. It's when they are reacting and not thinking that they are difficult to deal with.

On the other hand, talk to your vet about some daily ace (you can give it orally), or some longer-lasting resurpine for this. Her injury means she can't be twirling around on the end of a line or something, and you don't need to get hurt either.

[Bella]

Originally Posted by Lindsayanne

When the babies spook or pull back I was taught to just let them out to the end of their lead rope, and then gather them back up- but that's how I manged to get kicked (I let her out to the end of the rope when she yanked, but then she spun and caught me- I'm not sure if she was aiming for me but I disciplined her like she was!)

I personally think that's a bad idea... you have very little control over them once they hit the end of the rope, and they figure that out fast. Your best plan is to get their attention back on you NOW.

When a baby spooks and tries to take off, or for whatever other reason starts being a pain, the first thing I do is plant my feet and give the line a good haul, so their nose is swung back to me. If you wait until they've gotten to the end of the line, you're likely going to have a runaway. Just my opinion.

I do agree with what others have said though.. for the current situation, I think it would be in your favor to do a lot of bending, giving, etc. in the stall before taking her out. Get her thinking, and her mind on you, before she steps out of the stall.

-Bella

[Lindsayanne]

Originally Posted by JBandRio

On the other hand, talk to your vet about some daily ace (you can give it orally), or some longer-lasting resurpine for this. Her injury means she can't be twirling around on the end of a line or something, and you don't need to get hurt either.

Assuming I don't tempt God by saying this, we're actually fine as long as I've got the stud chain on her. I give her a little pop if she starts to get agitated and she'll calm back down and walk. I am SO thrilled with how well she is handling it all. Only 4 more days left!!

[bay_blnd jmpr07]

Originally Posted by Jenje!

In the middle of a freak-out, I've been known to stop, lip-twitch (by hand) and calm them down that way before moving on... "reboot" them so to speak. But that's more for when it's more actual fright than fight.

I've used the half-tap during a trailering episode...Mars decided he did not want to go on the trailer and started acting like a fruit. Used the half-tap to relax him and refocus and he walked right onto the trailer.

[JBandRio]

Originally Posted by Bella

I personally think that's a bad idea... you have very little control over them once they hit the end of the rope, and they figure that out fast. Your best plan is to get their attention back on you NOW.

For some horses, letting them move their feet, to some degree, is very very beneficial. I too work with a new or flighty horse with a LONG lead rope - my 22' line or even longer - so that they can indeed "float" without getting away. That is the reasoning behind one of the newer cross ties - allows some length of rope to go with the horse, because many horses realize that things aren't nearly as bad as they thought once they are allowed to move their feet and distance themselves a bit.

I do agree that you cannot wait until the horse hits the end of the line to try to do something. On the other hand, if their evasion is to turn the butt away from you and run backwards, there isn't always a whole lot you can do - there is no yanking the nose around to stop them, no disengaging the hindquarters, nothing.

Originally Posted by Lindsayanne

Assuming I don't tempt God by saying this, we're actually fine as long as I've got the stud chain on her. I give her a little pop if she starts to get agitated and she'll calm back down and walk. I am SO thrilled with how well she is handling it all. Only 4 more days left!!

That's fine for now Time will be gone before you know it, and you have gotten some good information on how to hopefully be in a better position next time, either with her, or another horse My WB gelding can still be an even larger horse than he is - 17h - when he's worked up about something scary. But, even with slack on the line of his rope halter, he knows he'd better not start pulling on it. He will behave in his comfy leather halter as well, in those situations, but it takes a little reminding of me working a few mental games in there.

[Fox Glove]

Originally Posted by JBandRio

On the other hand, talk to your vet about some daily ace (you can give it orally), or some longer-lasting resurpine for this. Her injury means she can't be twirling around on the end of a line or something, and you don't need to get hurt either.

I would steer far clear of resurpine for the lung issues alone.

Sorry I would never advocate drugging a still growing baby.
ETA unless it was under Vet supervision , for medical reasons.

A chain run UNDER her chin is more than enough to get her attention.
With proper diet, she should not be blowing up on a lead or free.

Quality time, and consistancy are the tools you need

Paula

[JBandRio]

Originally Posted by Fox Glove

I would steer far clear of resurpine for the lung issues alone.

Sorry I would never advocate drugging a still growing baby.
ETA unless it was under Vet supervision , for medical reasons.

Hence, advising talking to the vet There comes a time when some hand walking must be done, but stall rest otherwise must be done, and if the horse in question is dangerous to be taken out of the stall, a little chemistry isn't necessarily a bad thing. That's all

[Fox Glove]

We had a near feral mare almost lose her foot this year, I posted about it in my journal. She was a horror to handle, I had to twitch her for everything.

Her foot was cut from the back to the bone,she slid under a runout shed, the only thing that saved her from bleeding out, was it was below freezing. I can not belive she survied, I have been around injured animals for a long time, three years in a LAF at college, worst foot injury I ever saw, on one of the worst behaved animals I ever had to handle.

She healed like a wild animal, as she was just about one, but she behaves like a real lady now, and I walked a very fine line with her, shes hot to begin with, and was never stalled.She had to be while she was healing, there was no other way to keep her safe and the wound clean. She was hand walked as soon as I was sure she would not tear her stiches out, she jigged and danced, tried to strike, bolt and rear. She made it, and so did I

We managed just fine, with out drugs. It can be done, and Future would be a horse I would classify as dangerous, the Vet would not get near her.

Love, patience and time are the best drug when it comes to fear, and most acting out is feeling good or fear based .

Babies are still figuring life out, they have a right to do so clearly.

Paula

ETA Lindsay, I think your instincts are right on for all that is worth.

[JBandRio]

For sure, not all "wild child" horses need to be drugged - a lot or ever. This situation seems to be well under control, with Little Miss Thing realizing that good behavior is required when the chain is on So, no drugs are required, and Lindsay's doing a good job.

Not all people are competent enough to get a handle on some horses though.