[touchofdandy]

I am wondering if this layout will work for the electric fence. I need it all to be hot.

Dark Green Lines-Electric Fence
Orange & Sky Blue Rectangles-Gates (Non electric)
Blue Rectangle- Barn
Grey Lines-Cattle Panels
Pink Circle- Fence Charger

[aussie_jumper]

I don't see how that is a bad layout.. Really good in my eyes actually.. Good luck with it!

[Chester]

Electric fences work best on a full return system. I have made a quick bit on your drawing.

The red lines (that aren't straight) are where I would the insulated wire that you can bury to carry the pulse.



I would also use to to run the pulse out to the fence itself. Less chance of things going wrong that way or critters accidentally shorting it out in the shed.

[Chester]

Also don't forget your fence is only as good as the earth. Where are you planning earth pegs and how many.

How long is the fence?

[Haas Horse Farm]

Please explain the full return system as this is the first I have heard of that. Since electrical fence is already a complete system before it leaves the box there is no need for a complete loop.

Why have your charger on one side of the barn such that the wire has to go all the way through the barn?

I have over 40 acres of electrical fence and have no problems with it. Most of it is three wires high. Mine hangs outside in an open fronted house. Be sure to buy the charger that has the meter on it. They might be a little more expensive but they will more than pay for themselves in the long run. Mine has been hanging outside in its "house: for almost 7 years.

Look above the mares back...

[touchofdandy]

Originally Posted by chester

Also don't forget your fence is only as good as the earth. Where are you planning earth pegs and how many.

How long is the fence?

Not sure what you are talking about in the bold. The fence is hooked on the charger which is plugged in. Thats all.

Not sure on how long the fence is. Im going to be getting a new charger. The pasture on the far left doesnt exist yet. Just the other two. The one in the middle is 60x70, and the other is 70x? or 60x?

If I cant get the insulated wire to burry will it still work with out those?

The reason for the non electric gates is I dont want to have to mess with unhooking the wire to walk horses through and I also want to be able to leave the fence on while taking the horses from pasture to pasture.

[Chester]

Originally Posted by Haas Horse Farm

Please explain the full return system as this is the first I have heard of that. Since electrical fence is already a complete system before it leaves the box there is no need for a complete loop.

Mary, when we bought and installed our fence many moons ago the book that came with the power pack said that they work best on the full return system, I am not sure why but am doing a quick rummage to see if I can find the reason.

Originally Posted by touchofdandy

Not sure what you are talking about in the bold. The fence is hooked on the charger which is plugged in. Thats all.

You need an earth. Think about it. The power lines that carry the power to your house have little birds and such sit on them. They don't get electrocuted because the lines run through insulators preventing an earth. But if we climbed up the pole (earth) and touched the line we would be fried. On the bottom of your power pack should be an extra holder for the earth wire.

If I cant get the insulated wire to burry will it still work with out those?

You use the insulated wire under the gates. It connects to the live wire either side of the gate. Your gate will not be live, but your fence will.

The reason for the non electric gates is I dont want to have to mess with unhooking the wire to walk horses through and I also want to be able to leave the fence on while taking the horses from pasture to pasture.

The insulated wire connected correctly will do that for you. I also recommend when you run the fence you run 2 lines of wire, top live bottom earth. We have 3, top and bottom live, middle earth and haven't lost a critter through it in 13 years of it being used.

[touchofdandy]

I was meaning would the fence still work without the insulated wire if I couldn't get it.

And also are you meaning the fence posts or not?

[Chester]

A quick rummage has bought these bits of info for you.

Glossary
Ground
The rods in the ground which are connected to the ground terminal on the energizer. The ground collects the pulse through the earth when an animal touches the live wire and completes the circuit.
Ground wire return system
Used where dry or sandy soil conditions do not allow a traditional ground system to work. Consists of running a ground wire parallel to a hot fence wire, delivering at the point where the animal touches the two lines.
Ground System
Necessary to create a complete electrical circuit: when the animal touches the electrified wire, the electricity travels through the animal, into the soil, back to the ground rods that are connected to the fence controller, resulting in the animal receiving a brief shock. A ground system consists of ground rods (3), hookup wire, ground rod clamps and line clamps.

From this site

Glossary of electric fence terms and common definitions -- Fi-Shock Energized Fencing

Another site that has good explanations

Energizer Installation

[Chester]

Originally Posted by touchofdandy

I was meaning would the fence still work without the insulated wire if I couldn't get it.

And also are you meaning the fence posts or not?

Yes, it will still work but not as efficiently, or so I believe from our old fencing manual. You should be able to get it from where you buy your fencing supplies.

I am not sure what you mean about the fence posts. They will need to have insulators on them to attach the fence too.

Give me five minutes and I will return with piccies, if the camera doesn't have flat batteries.