[Florence]

I finally got my old man to order my harness for Freckles. Now, all I need to know is how to set it up. How does it attatch to the driving forks, the little guys that go on her sides to hold the chariot to her? It's not here yet and the chariot isn't built but I was just wondering. How do I set it up on her? I need some advice on training her to drive too. I have until December so between now and then I have her under a very strict workout to build some muscle, strength, and most importantly confidence. She is very shy around large amounts of people, she gets this little look, she kinda just hunches over and looks at the ground. My neighbor said that I should put one of those straps that goes from the halter/bridle to the breast strap on her but tie it around the horn so she can't put her head down. I don't really like that idea but whatever's gonna help. But any help on how to teach and ready her for driving is great. Thanks.

[cassidy]

well the best thing for training--

well she has to have a carriage behind her so in training you need to get her pulling something that will descare her like a tyre!!

as for harnessing her up its very difficult to describe i have done it once you get the hang of it its fine!!

i wil try an find you something on the net to help!!

good luck with everything though

[cassidy]

Training the Horse to Drive
A Step By Step Guide
by Susan Greenall



The end product: a relaxed, pleasant horse to drive.
photo courtesy of Greenall Carriage HouseDriving has become an increasingly popular equine sport as well as an opportunity to enjoy horses in yet another way. The breaking process teaches the horse to move forward regardless of the restrictions of the shafts and the resistance felt from the weight behind him.

Throughout the entire training process, it is important to keep in mind the goal of producing a quiet, reliable animal that responds with understanding to the demand of driving.

Before attempting any of the following procedures, the horse should have mastered a number of things. The horse needs to lead and tie with no issues. He should stand quietly at any point when walked around your grounds or down the road. Assuming that this horse has been bitted and understands the basic concepts of control through the bit, he should be long lined for several weeks before introducing the harness. The horse should be able to long line in a relaxed manner and be able to execute a walk, trot and halt on lines with verbal command. The horse should be accustomed to having the lines brought around his hindquarters and have no issues with lines touching his hind legs. He should be able to long line down the road, accepting the presence of automobiles, dogs and other "horse-eating" monsters. He should halt and stand quietly at any point of his exercise. With the introduction of the driving bridle, he should be able to perform in the same manner. Depending on the individual, this should take from one to three weeks. You are now ready to start the horse to drive.

You will need:
- two 12-foot lengths of PVC pipe
- two long lengths of smooth rope
- a single tree
- 2 trace extenders
- a short length of chain
- a tire
- a properly fitted harness
- a suitable breaking cart
- a minimum of two, preferably three assistants.

For the first two steps, do not put the traces on the horse. Tie up the britching straps so that they cannot fall down and be stepped on. The use of two pieces of PVC pipe makes for a light, durable simulation of shafts. While you hold the lines, have an assistant slide the pipes through the tugs of the harness, holding the ends. As you line the horse, have your assistant "pretend he's the carriage," allowing the right pipe to touch the horse's hindquarters as you turn left and vice versa.

The next step is to introduce the drag, which will simulate the noise and pull of a carriage. In order to accustom the horse to the noise made by the drag, line the horse with your assistant pulling the drag along at a distance that is comfortable for the horse. Synchronize your starts and stops with your assistant so that the horse understands that the drag is going to stay behind him, not overtake him. It is vitally important that the horse's first experience with the drag is a good one. Repeat this exercise until the horse is completely comfortable at a walk and trot over all types of surfaces.

The addition of the traces will add the problem of how to secure them on the horse until you are ready for them. This is important, as a horse can easily step on a loose trace and be frightened, something you want to avoid. By adding a loop on the britching ring, you can secure the traces easily until you are ready for them. The metal loops designed for the side check work nicely, or a leather strap or loop of baling twine will suffice. Run the trace through the tugs and then through a loop you have added to the ring. You can then loop the trace through itself to secure it. This next step is designed so that should the horse develop a problem, the drag can be quickly released. Two lengths of smooth rope are attached to the singletree, which is attached to the tire with a short chain. While your assistant is heading the horse with a lead shank, thread both ends of the rope through the slits in the end of the traces. Bring both ends of the rope behind the tire and to the second assistant. In this way, if the horse becomes nervous or charges forward, the tire can be removed quickly simply by letting go of the ropes (see diagram). Give your command to move off with your first assistant walking at the horse's head and the second assistant securely holding the ropes. Assuming that all is going well, this procedure would be repeated for two or three sessions with figure eights, slow trots and trips around the barn area added as seen fit.

In order to pull the drag without assistance, it must be hooked directly to the horse. By replacing the rope with a set of trace expenders, the traces can be bucked to the drag. The trace extenders also allow 6-8 inches more clearance to the single tree, something a long-strided horse will need, and in case you have a problem, they are easily removed. Hooking the drag by yourself is at best tricky business. If you can get someone to help you for at least the first time, by all means do so. Never attach the drag until the horse is completely harnessed, including the bridle. Always remove the drag before removing any part of the harness from the horse. Cross tie the horse, tacked, placing the drag behind him. It is very important that the horse stands quietly until he is told to move off. A tangle here will undo a great deal of work. If cross ties are not available, this procedure can be done while the horse is tied to a fence, with even greater care taken when attaching the drag. Line the horse with the drag everywhere and anywhere you can. On long lines, ask for a walk, trot, halt and stand. If your horse can perform to your satisfaction at this point, you can look forward to having your first drive very soon. Depending on the individual and your availability of help, this should take one to two weeks.

With your assistant at the horse's head with a lead shank, raise the shafts of the cart over the horse's back until they can be dropped down and slid into the tugs of the harness. At this point, no other piece of the harness is attached to the cart. Notice that a halter has been left on the horse for safety purposes and that the traces and reins have been secured. With a second assistant on the shaft holding it firmly with one hand in front, the other in the back of the tug, walk the horse off on command with the assistant pulling the cart. Here is where the exercises with the PVC pipe and the tire pay off. Depending on how the horse reacts, you may want to spend several sessions doing this, or you may continue on. Since the horse is not actually attached to the cart, it can be removed very quickly, should he become nervous.

Breaking carts usually have longer shafts, therefore you may need your trace extenders again. You may also want to use a bucking strap, a heavy leather strap that fits on to the crupper and is attached to a footman's loop on the shafts on either side. Should the horse be startled and hop or kick, the strap prevents him from getting his leg over a shaft. The bucking strap must be attached to the footman's loops and loose enough for the horse to move without restraint at the walk and trot.

With the horse standing quietly instruct an assistant to attach the traces. With a second assistant at the horse's head, ask the horse to walk off. The next move is to climb into the cart. This can be done either at a halt or while the horse is walking. Make sure your assistant is in control of the horse when you do this. If all goes well, stop and attach the britching of the harness to the cart. Since you are the one holding the reins, your assistant must have a basic understanding of how this is done.

Any of your assistants should know exactly how to strip the cart off if anything happens. The moment the horse acts nervous or confused you should stop and remove the cart. Introduce the horse to things that could happen by shaking the cart while it is on him and dropping the cart when removing it, taking care that your assistant is at his head.

All the weeks of preparation will have been worth it for the thrill of sitting behind a relaxed, responsive horse. When you feel the horse and you are ready, move into a slow trot, always with your assistants near at hand. Limit your driving to a flat ring or enclosed area that you and your horse are familiar with until you feel that the horse is working through your commands easily and happily. Ask one of your assistants to join you in the carriage; after all, they deserve a reward too.This will also accustom the horse to pulling additional weight.

The only thing the horse has to adjust to now is the engaging of the britching. Holding back a cart while walking down a hill is a new experience, and the horse's natural instinct is to move away from the pressure, therefore speeding up. You will be pulling back on the reins and the horse can be confused by the conflicting commands. The first time you drive the horse down an incline, have one assistant at his head, the other behind the cart, holding it back as needed. After several times, the horse will understand that he must brace against the pressure without increasing his speed.

Should the horse balk at any point, go back to line driving to solve the problem. For example, the horse might object to additional weight in the cart, such as a passenger. He may balk or stop going up a hill. This is not uncommon as many horses manage to "cheat" in pulling a cart without actually engaging the back and hindquarters. When they are forced to do this by additional weight, they get confused.

By returning to pulling the drag, you can introduce more "weight" by adding another tire to the drag. We have also poured cement into a tire to make it heavier. If you want to feel what effect two tires or a cement filled tire has on the horse, try pulling them around! Start the horse with the "easy" drag to regain his confidence. Use an assistant to add the weight, then have your assistant go to the horse's head with a lead shank. Start the horse on a smooth surface for easier pulling. He is immediately going to notice the added weight and might need encouragement from you and your assistant. It is important that he goes forward. If he balks, keep in mind that this is a mental balk. After all, if you can pull the tire, so can he! Give the horse confidence, not punishment, until he can start off smoothly with the tire. As the horse gains confidence, ask him to start the tire in more difficult conditions, such as on grass and on a slight incline. The start should always be smooth with the horse stepping forward with his head down and back engaged.

It is not a wise thing to drive a green horse down the road without another person in the cart with you. Stick to familiar territory at first, areas where you have ground driven the horse. You will be able to judge when the horse is ready to "hit the road" by how relaxed he is and how responsive to your commands. Remember to reinforce the command to stand throughout your training, for a fussy horse is both unsafe and not a pleasure. As the horse progresses, you may want to switch to a better cart if you have one, but it is advisable to stick to a light, two-wheeled variety for a while. Congratulations - you now have a pleasant animal to drive and enjoy.

[emsNkeeper]

I don't know alot about driving, but I have been around a lady who broke belgians to drive. She taught them to ground drive first and then she stood on something the horses pulled... but I don't know what. I do know ground driving is very important.