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| | #1 |
| Senior Member+ | Developing The "Ideal Headset" There have been lots of threads on how to get the head down, floating around the forums lately. Of course these questions refer to that pretty, correct carriage of the neck and head that really complete a winning picture. Before jumping into discussing the "how", it's important to know the "why". The perfect headset is a result of a bunch of other cool things happening with your horse's body. First, the horse is pushing under himself correctly with his hocks, driving the hind legs beneath his body and pushing off, engaging his hindquarter, which is the "motor" that propels him. Once his hindquarter is engaged, he is free to round his back up, lifting with the abdomininal muscles, and shift his weight a little toward the back; this in turn lets him lift his shoulders. Once the shoulders are loose and light, the neck is lifted from the wither and allowed to fall into a natural arch that suits the conformation of the horse. [ie. For a Quarter Horse, this is nearly level, and for an Arabian, this arch is much more bascule or round]. When the neck is carried in this natural arch from the shoulder, the head essentially 'falls into place'. The well-mannered, soft-mouthed horse is easy to perfect from there, by adjusting the position the face is carried in, with the standard ideal being "on or just in front of the vertical". As such, the "ideal headset" comes from the hindquarter, through the back, shoulders, and neck. It is futile to try to just pull the face in to the rest of the body... this results in a horse with a "false frame", which is simply carrying its face on the vertical while the rest of the body is strung out behind. So assuming that the horse is traveling with impulsion, lifting his back, and free in the shoulders, we start the process of perfecting the carriage of the neck and head. The method I have had the most success with is outlined here, but keep in mind there are lots of ways to do this. Many ways use training aids, but this one does not. To teach the horse to soften and flex at the poll: Take up the slack in your reins, so you can feel the mouth, but you are not pulling. Use your legs to push your horse up into the bit. Depending on the horse, a light squeeze may be all that's needed, but most require a soft "bump" with the lower legs. Hold the reins steady and keep bumping the horse up into your hands until he drops his nose in, and then release with your hands and stop the bumping with your legs immediately, as the reward. As long as he keeps his nose in where you want it, leave him alone. As soon as he pokes his nose out, take up the slack and hold with your hands, then bump him up again, til he drops again, then release. Before long, you hardly need the rein cue and the horse drops his nose with a "bump" cue from your legs. It's a very simplistic method but it works wonders. It works in any discipline, but I especially love it for Western classes where we want to show on a loose rein. My Western Pleasure horse goes along on a draped rein and I can tuck her nose with just my legs. I hope this helps a few people.
__________________ RIDE hard or go home |
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| | #3 |
| Senior Member | What do you think about draw reigns as a tool to help bring a pulling horse to a minimum and hold the frame better... I'm not talking about having the draw reigns as tight as possible, but just enough so the horse has a little slack with his head, but tight enough so he can't pull you off your seat? where would you sugest putting them if you agree? I know of three places. connecting them to each side of the horses outside girth and up to the bridle. (Either connecting it low near the belly or up near the saddle pad) As well as having one (or two) go straight up from underneat the girth through the horses legs and connecting to the bridle. I guess I'm asking you what the safest but most effective place would be to put them? I tend to use them just enough so my mare doesn't pull me off totally, she has a really strong head. Only durring a lesson, never on a trail ride and never jumping.
__________________ You dream of it & in your dreams is has a mane & tail flying hooves covered in feathers that whisper to the grass as it gallops past. A language that speaks to your soul. |
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| | #4 |
| Senior Member+ | Draw reins are effective for transfering the pull of the reins from a direct seated position to a down position. They are effective at getting a good headset, but send slightly different cues to the mouth of the horse and you will have to end up reteaching the "headsetting cues" on direct reins anyway. Granted it won't take as long as your horse will have an understanding of what you want now. Draw reins IMO are more a quick route to getting poll flexion, but are good to stop a 'head-tosser'. All the same results can be achieved with time, patience, and good/proper hand use on direct reins. As Ridegrrl stated above: "The headset is transmitted from the hindquarters via the back, shoulders, and finally the neck and head." A proper head-set is more a matter of getting the horse collecting correctly and giving to the bit willingly and lightly. Than a matter of getting the vertical head positioning. Better to get the foundation of the headset lain and ingrained than trying to build it from the top down! If you do want to use draw reins I would suggest attaching them to the girth between the front legs like a martigale or training Y. This keeps the reins away from your legs and out of the horses legs too. Thereby in a 'wreck' type situation neither you nor your horse will get legs tangled in the reins as easily as they can in other mounting positions. This also gives more of an "into the chest" pull on the bit. One reminder: Draw reins are designed for use with a snaffle bit only!! NOT for leveraged bits (whether a tom-thumb/shanked snaffle) or any other bit that do not work off of direct pull on the cheeks.
__________________ Talking to a horse means listening first! |
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| | #5 |
| Senior Member+ | I agree with mi amigo CW. What I would suggest you do with your mare, is work on a check and release kind of contact rather than trying to hold her. If she is strong, she can only pull on you if you give her something to pull against by holding. Instead, try a firm check on the reins (or even more effective, one rein at a time) to interrupt her and then release again. A horse cannot brace against a bump, and can't pull on a loosened rein. Granted, to begin with she will probably go faster in between checks. Be patient. Exaggerate this process. If she's cantering and getting strong, check her hard and make her trot or even walk. After she has walked/trotted a few strides calmly without pulling on you, then let her try canter again. If she gets strong again, repeat your check and walk/trot process. She'll learn that it's not worth speeding up and getting strong because you're just going to check her (hard if necessary) and make her slow down anyway.
__________________ RIDE hard or go home |
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| | #6 |
| Senior Moderator | I see that you said you were a judge. You have a very clear way of explaining things that are easy to understand. Do you do this with youth riders that you judge also? I think it is the nicest and most beneficial thing in the world for a judge to briefly tell examples of what kids need to work on or what areas they were strong in. I means a lot to the exhibitors. Just wanted to pass this along to you and any other judges out there.
__________________ "Never has an adult stood so tall as they were when they bent down to help a child....." (from my friend Sandra) |
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| | #7 |
| Senior Member | Thanks a lot! I have worked so hard on getting my horse on the bit and to stop pulling. I found the draw reigns helpful tho. I do a lot of half halts wit her, massaging the reighs untill she works her form. I never make them so tight that she's doesn't have her head at all. I let them allmost hang off, but just tight enough so she gets the idea. then I work slowly to get her into frame. Using hand aids, leg aids etc...I know some people who make the reigns as tight as possible and as soon as they come off, the horses head imedatly flys up. I would never do that. I see where they can become a crutch for the rider!
__________________ You dream of it & in your dreams is has a mane & tail flying hooves covered in feathers that whisper to the grass as it gallops past. A language that speaks to your soul. |
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| | #8 |
| Senior Member+ | cant draw reins also develop a fake head set? like where the horse doesnt flex at the poll, but a bit behind it and is below the verticle? or maybe i'm thinking of a running martingale. i kno this one woman who "trains" horses with both of these and sure it looks pretty but its wrong. which one is it that can do this? BBJ |
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| | #9 | |||
| Senior Member+ | Quote:
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__________________ RIDE hard or go home Last edited by ridegrrl; 05-20-2004 at 04:51 PM. | |||
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| | #10 |
| Senior Member | I'll try to post a pic of the side reigns and then you can take a look ridegrrl and see what you think. You have great advice! My mare kinda knows what there ment for too, all you have to do it put them on, really loose and she knows she should have her head! I had a lesson yesterday, and hooked them from the side of the girth over to the bit. I didn't want to try something else, waste my 35$ lesson on fixing them. But I am going to try underneath next time. I did a lot of no stirrup trot and canter so thats another place where they work really well keeping her off her for-hand and she gets really collected. We work on half haults like theres no tomarrow! Massaging the reigns. Stopping, getting collected, anything else that might help her stay collected. I think this post should be named "Draw Reigns" lol
__________________ You dream of it & in your dreams is has a mane & tail flying hooves covered in feathers that whisper to the grass as it gallops past. A language that speaks to your soul. |
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| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Developing a deeper seat | Bella | Horse Chat | 11 | 06-21-2004 07:13 PM |