[SaddleUp158]

Ok, I will do that.

[Tack Collector]

Sorry. I was off visiting other boards, lol. And filing to get my money back from that ebay deal. ;-)

I'm not up on the latest in leathers. I don't have any recommendation for leathers. Generally, the flatter they lie, the better. Some people like wide 1 1/4", some like narrow 7/8" or even 3/4". If you don't have an adjustable bar saddle, you can play a little with the stirrup position by using narrow or wide leather and forcing it to hang more forward or back.

Generally, I'm cheap on those. I did pay good money for Fennell's leathers that will last forever, but they are the old style thick & heavy duty and not everyone wants that. Also, the edges were squared off too much, so I took my beveling tool and beveled that down so they feel smoother under the leg and don't scuff the saddle as much. So don't buy anything with a really square edge. They'll feel twice as bulky that way and you'll feel that edge. Beveled edge is good.

I like the old Crosby and Eldonian leathers but they don't make the same kind anymore. I have some Joseph Sterling from SSTACK.com. For sale saddles, I get Amish made leathers from the local tack shop. I've bought the National Bridle Shop ones that are $25 or $30, made in their shop, and they are okay for an older saddle.

Lots of people like calfskin wrapped ones or buffalo on these newer saddles with the soft leather and / or painted-on finishes. Trot.org, saddlebredtalk.com, ultimatedressage.com, and Chronical of the Horse boards are all places you can search for opinions.

On my beater saddle, I use $13 nylon stirrup straps from Libertyville Saddle Shop.

[Jrchloe]

I like the 3/4 regular leathers because they are not so wide and can fit in the sweet spot of your knee between your knee cap. I also like equitation leathers where the holes are closer together so you have more opitions for the perfect length. I use the leathers for the MMX. I think they are just slightly too wide and thick but they don't mark up my saddle so the pros outway the cons.

[SaddleUp158]

I have never really thought about the leathers much. Typically just use whatever came on the saddle, provided they are in good condition.

[Jrchloe]

Leathers are important. If you get good ones they can be more comfortable, fit better, last a long time and safe.

[Jrchloe]

This might be out of your price range but Shelby Horse Supply just got a used 21" MMX in perfect state for $2200. The price includes leathers (over $100), irons and a saddle cover, so its not a bad price for all included.

[Jrchloe]

OK I have a new question. Say you measure for 22" saddle but you have a horse with a short back and a 22" sits past the 18th vertabre? You feel scrunched in anything smaller than a 21"? What do you do? Would the best thing to do find a 20" that measures large with adjustable bars?

[SaddleUp158]

I have no idea; however, someone posted a reply on a thread recently in regards to a hunt saddle being too small for the rider, but fitting the horse perfectly. The reply was that any pressure points there may be will be magnified since the saddle is too small for the rider. If I remember correctly padding will help? I may have totally butchered what was said, hopefully whoever gave the reply I am thinking of will see this thread!

[Tack Collector]

Originally Posted by Jrchloe

OK I have a new question. Say you measure for 22" saddle but you have a horse with a short back and a 22" sits past the 18th vertabre? You feel scrunched in anything smaller than a 21"? What do you do? Would the best thing to do find a 20" that measures large with adjustable bars?

I think you'd probably have to go to a really flat seat saddle, like the Barnsby LaCroix flat, or that flat Windsor that Hartmeyer sells, drop to a 20", and then lengthen the stirrups and ride more upright with a straight leg. Adjustable bars set all the way forward may help a little, too.